May 31, 2011

Leland, between Kenmore and Winthrop

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History Correspondent

Winthrop was on my newspaper route and a few of my friends lived there. Winthrop was all Black on both sides of the street from Leland Ave south to where it bends around and dead ends into Kenmore Ave.

I don't know who was in charge there, but I always figured they had their own secret mayor.
The community seemed to take care of it self and never gave any trouble.

Now, the rumor was that back in the 20's the rich Jewish people that lived in Rogers Park bought all the buildings on Winthrop so their domestic help didn't have to travel all the way to the south side.

The buildings on Winthrop consisted of two or four or six flat apartment buildings,
and were not cut into single one, two, or three kitchenettes, like the ones we lived in.

When a building would be razed, play ground equipment would appear.

I remember at least two basement Churches, and in one of the two flats there were two regulation-size pool tables. There were a few black-owned businesses, Colliers chicken, Coleman Brothers Movers, and Dave the painter.

In my early teens, I worked for Dave the painter. He payed good and taught me how to paint. This was in the day before rollers and spray guns.

COLLIERS CHICKEN

At the S.W corner of Leland and Kenmore was a large apartment Building that ran from Kenmore, west to the Alley. From there on west to Winthrop was an empty lot. On one edge of the lot was a small structure. A carry out chicken store. Now this was in the late 40'S, way before fast foods, KFC, and Browns Chicken, and it was a whole lot better.

Colliers Chicken was Black-owned and operated. They also delivered and took phone orders for those who had phones. Their delivery cars were 1949 Crosleys (love to have one of those today). The biggest treat we could come up with was an order to go from Colliers. Crisp southern fried chicken. I always thought Colliers started the fast food craze and carry out restaurants.

There were restaurants for people with money, and for the rest of us there was the Ritz Grill or a hot dog stand. When Colliers came along, we all thought it was great because we could afford it.

I don't Remember what happened to them or when they went out of business.

May 30, 2011

Leland and Kenmore, 1914

A rare view of the intersection, currently on eBay


Here's how it looks today:


View Larger Map

May 29, 2011

Foster Avenue Beach, 1975

Love this!

Foster Avenue and the Lake, 1975. Image available here: Foster Ave Beach


Benjamin's 5200 Sheridan Rd.


An interesting pic of a table at Benjamin's on Sheridan, 1951. Available here: Benjamin's on Sheridan

May 28, 2011

A View of Clarendon Beach


Currently offered as a Buy it Now here: Clarendon Beach

History of the Chelsea Hotel

Thanks to Jon Trott for the head's up on the first of a planned three-part history, Chelsea Hotel Before the Jesus People. Great stuff!

May 27, 2011

WILSON AND CLARENDON AVES

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History Correspondent

This area underwent so many changes when I lived there, up to 1952
On the North side of Wilson from Clarendon to Marine Dr. was the Wilshore Outdoor Dancing "place"

As a kid I remember a large very high wooden fence that ran the length of the whole block.
inside was the dance floor, I always wanted to go there when I grew up, but I didn't get the chance , i walked by there one day and it was gone
I think this was sometime in around 1946..
Just west of Clarendon on Wilson was Sallys Bike shop and rental I used to rent bikes from there for .50 cents all day.
then on Clarendon just north of Wilson was a hot dog stand, best in town. but that was torn down to make way for Honolulu Harry's Night club
then that was torn down sometime before the Hospital was built.
Moving west on Wilson was a very unique Tavern called" Hack's Wilson Cottage" and it was just that, A cottage with a bar in it.
A buddy of mine, another guy I grew up with and now in our late twenties or early thirties . Went to Hack's Wilson Cottage had a drink there .
the next day they tore it down, and of course, to have a drink at the Backstage Strip Bar. I think the same ladies were dancing there, as when I was a kid

Most of the buildings on Wilson Ave where my friends lived have all been razed with new structures in place. Progress I guess

On of my favorite hang outs was the Sheridan Ave Recreation Parlor. Now this was on Sheridan and Wilson , last time I went by there it was a McDonalds.
I call that reverse progress.
The Sheridan Rec had everything. bowling alleys, ping pong tables, pool tables and pin ball machines. I used to love pin ball it was a nickel a game. then all of a sudden they were outlawed and gone.

Having walked most of Uptown, I was always amazed at the neat Little rock gardens spread out through the area
My Memory doesn't serve as well as I would like it too.
In a lot of backyards were the neatest Castles, complete with moats, small villages creeks and ponds with water
some were mansions some were very elaborate churches and others were country cottages
All were meticulously made. out of shells and rocks. I can remember at least 8 or 10 of these all made by different individuals. They were there when I was a kid and never thought to inquire how they got there.

Any guesses

May 23, 2011

1976 Bay City Rollers Concert, Uptown Theater, Chicago

Currently for sale on eBay is a series of photos of a 1976 Bay City Rollers Concert at the Uptown.









May 20, 2011

THE 1949 MERCURY/ The Safety Lanes

I always felt sorry for the guy who owned a 49 merc and drove through our neighborhood. because that car carried a trophy of our manhood.
It was the lock cover on the 49 Merc . It was something that caught our attention immediately.

It was about 2'1/2 inches in diameter it was round and had a 1/2 " chrome edge around the outside. and In the center was a chrome Mercury head, set in a deep red field that looked like a ruby.
We had never seen anything like this before, then, A local kid had one attached to his belt.
We all had to have one. now this lock cover pivoted from left or right in order to cover the trunk keyhole.

It was only secured in place by an 1/8'" piece of soft metal,

Any Merc parked was fair game and within a two week period there wasn't a lock cover in the area.

We even got so brazen that when a Merc stopped at a stop light we would walk up behind it and grab the cover and swing it up then with a sharp pull downward the cover came off in our hand. most of the time the driver never knew what happened.

This Merc head became our Medal of Valor .
we fashioned them into belt buckles and fit them to the straps of our Engineer boots.
I am hoping that the statue of limitations has long expired.

THE SAFETY STICKER LANES

At the lake front on the northside of Wilson Ave, and west of Simmons Drive was a huge parking lot
this lot, parked buses and all kinds of week end traffic, but during the week it was the Safety Lanes

Now every car in the city of Chicago had to have a city sticker, this law was strictly enforced
Before you could get a City sticker you had to have a safety sticker, What a political gold mine this was.
every day hundreds of cars would come through the Lanes, cars would be herded like cattle twisting up one side and down the other and then finally through the Safety check point itself, the on duty attendants would check out your brakes, steering, windshields and head light alignment. You wouldn't pass. if your car was brand new, you wouldn't pass.
UNLESS you left a dollar on the front seat, then you would pass, unless your car was in real bad shape, then you might have to leave up to five dollars, once you got your safety sticker you could get your city sticker,

It was one of the most prestigious patronage jobs the city had to offer,

Oh Wait, Chicago never had patronage workers. wink, wink

Bill Matteson

May 13, 2011

My Neighborhood, Uptown Chicago

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History Correspondent

Editor's Note: Bill lived on Kenmore from 1942 to 1952, and shares his memories of that time. If you have memories of Uptown or photos you'd like to share, e-mail us at editor @ compassrose.com.


MY NEIGHBORHOOD

I loved the area where I grew up. It wasn't fancy or upscale, but it was real, with real people. I loved swimming at the New Lawrence Hotel. For 30 cents we could swim all day, with unlimited hot water in the showers. I think that was the real treat.

Over at the Aragon, me and Jimmy Thomas would help sweep up the floor on Sunday morning, sometimes on Friday afternoon. I would come home and tell my mom that I met Eddie Howard. She had a crush on him, I think (I have a cassette of his in my car). Eddie would send me or Jimmy to Happy Jacks Deli on the S.E. corner of Lawrence and Sheridan. He liked their corn beef on rye.  I always thought it was disgusting, until I was about 25 yrs old and I tried one. Wow, all those wasted years.

On the north side of Lawrence just west of the El tracks was an old junk yard; this became our playground. Those old cars were our spacecraft ala Flash Gordon or a Pershing Tank or whatever we wanted it to be

At the S.W. corner of Kenmore and Lawrence was the Viceroy Hotel, later to become the Wilton. West at the corner of the alley and Lawrence was the Ritz Grill. The Ritz made hamburgers, fries, and chili. I have never found their equal; I have searched and came close a few times, but never the same.

West of Winthrop was a barber shop with a watch repair guy in the front window and next to the tracks was Marquis Lunch , a cafeteria.

The Uptown Bank building was the tallest structure in the area at that time. Me and Norman Sobiesk would take the elevator to the top floor; he had a pair of binoculars and we would look out at the Lake.
Most of the time we would get caught by someone and kicked out.

Just west of the El was Clifton Ave; this was a scary street in the dark, but we would walk it at night just to prove how brave we were. The east side was railroad/El embankment and the west side was the backs of stores.

At Clifton and Broadway was the Undertakers and the Uptown Chicago Boys Club and a men's clothing store.  I bought my first pair of Levis, a Levi jacket, and a wide belt with a big trophy buckle--total price was about $12 /13.

The Levi's we wore had exposed copper rivets . Our principal from Stewart School, "Mary Sullivan," hollered at us because the rivets were scratching up the desks and chairs. We were all afraid of Mrs Sullivan; she would pound her fist on the desk, veins would pop out on her forehead; she'd get beet red in the face when she hollered at us.

Then Levi's came out with covered rivets. Evidently, Levi's was afraid of Mary Sullivan, too.

On Broadway we had shoe stores. Father and Son, Thom McCann, Red Goose, Flagg Bros. They would even x-ray our feet in the shoes to see if they fit right, and we could get a free gift, usually a model airplane.

I liked the pawn shops; they all had neat stuff.

At Broadway and Leland was the Majestic store for men. There was a shop on Broadway under the El tracks, The Hasty Tasty Barbecue. They would have ribs, chicken, and beef on a rotisserie. I can't forget "Val o Wil" chicken, a poultry shop; their motto was "milk fed chicken."

Leland and Broadway had Kresge 5 & 10. Towards Wilson Ave was Woolworth's 5 &10. I liked Woolworth's because I could enter on Broadway and go out the "secret door" onto Winthrop Ave.

On Leland just east of Kenmore at the alley was a men's store; I bought my first One Button Roll Suit. It cost $16 and it was powder blue.

The N.E. corner was Barneys Tavern; the N.W corner was Leibermans Drug Store

Bill Matteson
4737 Kenmore
1942-1952

May 11, 2011

PINNER OR PIN-ER, Who's got a Tennis Ball?

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History Correspondent

Pinner was a game we played whenever we had the time and a tennis ball. Usually in a school yard or if we could find a building that had a little ledge somewhere between knee and waist high. If we couldn't find any ledge, then a cement step would do. We would have two players on each side. Sometimes three. Baseball rules applied.

We would chalk off an area, from the building outwards to the street; the batter would throw the tennis ball at the ledge, trying to hit it on the edge of the ledge. The ball would fly out, towards the street, the fielder would catch it. One out, three outs and the opposing team was up to bat.

Now if the ball hit the sidewalk 12 feet away from the building, it was an automatic out. At about 18 feet away, if the fielder caught the ball on a fly it was an out. If the ball bounced in that 18 foot area it was a single. At 24 feet it was a double, at 30 a triple, and over 35 a homer. Only if the ball wasn't caught. Any ball caught on a fly was an out.S core was kept. Nine innings were played. There was always a team standing by to play the winners.

The days when no chalk was available we simply pointed out cracks in the sidewalk or street or drew lines in the gravel at the school yard.

Using the tennis ball, we played fast pitch; a broomstick with tape on the handle was used for the bat. I think our generation invented fast pitch. Today in fast pitch they use baseball gloves and regulation bats.

Hand Ball was a game we played on the sidewalk using two sidewalk squares. We stood outside the lines and using our hand like a paddle we hit the ball over the line into the other square and your opponent would return it in like manner. Ping pong rules applied

May 6, 2011

1947 Indian Chief Motorcycle on the Streets of Chicago


Lionel Rowe in the side car and Don French, the driver, in a 1947 Indian Chief. Both boys were from Senn High School's class of 1953. Image courtesy Bill Matteson.

May 5, 2011

The Great Undercover Operation of 1950

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History Corespondant

As a group of 14 year old Uptown boys with a lot of time on our hands, we formed an Explorer / Sea Scout Group. At one of our meetings, a Sheriff's Deputy showed up and wanted us to join the Junior Deputy Sheriff's League of Cook County, which was designed for us "underprivileged kids" to keep us off the streets.

Well, no one wanted to join, until they showed us the badges we could carry, complete with serial number. We even had to be fingerprinted and bring a letter from our clergyman.

After much discussion on what a clergyman was, we joined and forgot about it until the following June, when I received a call from Deputy King. "Hello, is this Bill, with badge number 4881?" Wow. I said it was, and then he proceeded to lay out a plan.

I was to get two other Jr. Deputies, bring our badges, and meet him at the end of the Lawrence Ave street car line, at Austin Ave.

The old Red Rocket street car ran from Broadway on the East to the City Limits on the West., which was Austin Ave.

Me, Bob Carter, and Aki Inaba got off the street car and there were two men leaning up against a building reading newspapers, trying to look inconspicuous.
They asked if we had our badges, which we showed them, and then we were taken to the Sheriff's Station on Milwaukee Ave in Morton Grove.

Just outside the City Limits of Chicago were fireworks stands, because it was illegal to sell exploding fireworks within the City Limits.

Here was the plan:

We each went with two deputies and were given a five dollar bill. Serial number was recorded. My "cover" story was I was going on vacation with my dad and my uncle. I needed to take some firecrackers with me, so my job was to talk the operator into selling me some. Now, anything that exploded was considered illegal. The deputies also told me to only spend $4.50 and always get change so as to not arouse suspicion. So I approached a stand and bought some firecrackers. I got back to the car, got in the back seat, showed them the packs of "china boy" firecrackers; they turned on the siren and we raided the stand. We brought all illegal fireworks into the station and got set to go back out again. They gave me another $5 bill, I said I still had .50 from the first five, and they told me no, I didn't. "You spent the whole five." "No, look, here's the .50 piece." Dep King said, "Look, kid, you spent the whole 5 dollars," and then he winked. I caught on real fast.

We went to another stand; I went up, and with the new $5 bought .50 worth of firecrackers and kept the change.

The deputies laughed and we went out again with another $5. I spent .50
We made four raids that day and I have $14 in my pocket. I had a newspaper route and only made $3.50 a week. So I found a new vocation.

We did the same for three more days, and I'm rolling in money, but not from just keeping the change. At the end the first day, Dep. King sent me to the jail cell with a bag to get him and his partner some confiscated fireworks. I told the jailer who it was for and he said ok. I brought up a large bag full of goods, then I asked if it would be OK for me to have some and they said sure. So we all had a little bag of firecrackers.

The next day, I brought with me two shopping bags from Goldblatt's filled with crinkled newspapers and covered over with old polo shirts, which I explained away by saying I was going over to my aunt's at the end of the day. These bags I left in the sheriff's station and would pick them up later.

Next day was basically the same as the first day, and before we knocked off, I went down to the jail cell to get my two Goldblatt's Bags . I removed the paper and filled them up with "goods", covered the tops with the shirts, and came home on the streetcar.

I sold all the fireworks in the neighborhood and made about $80 with what I kept from the change. I was so rich I had to hide money from my mom; she found one of my stashes and she thought Dad was holding out on her. That was one nasty fight, until my dad read the Sun-Times paper on July 3 1950, and right there on page three was a picture of me, Bob, and Aki with a description of our wonderful work keeping fireworks off the street and out the hands of kids.

Mom and Dad realized who was stashing the money and I confessed the whole story.
Mom gave me a lecture on doing the right thing and Dad Borrowed $10

—Bill Matteson

May 4, 2011

Murder, Police Shootout, and Suicide

Bill Matteson
Uptown Chicago History corespondant


In the late 1940s, we had two mail deliveries each day; one came in the morning and the other in the afternoon. I would come home at lunch time to check the mail. We would listen to radio serials after school, and in that program they would weave in a premium toy or device that we just couldn't live withoutS. o I sent in for a "Tom Mix" ring that had a siren whistle built in. I would check the mail twice a day, so I could be the first in my neighborhood to get one.

One day, after checking the mail, I was walking back to school when I heard a muffled boom, boom, boom! I looked across the street and watched a man run out of a building, gun in hand. He ran into the gangway at the south of the building, so me, being curious or just plain stupid, followed behind at a safe distance. I saw him turn towards Leland Ave.A  second later, bang, bang, bang! I don't know exactly how many shots were fired. I peeked around the corner to find the the guy ran right into the #122 squad from TownHall Station. He shot at them, they shot back. He took a position behind a green Allied Moving Van that had plywood sides, parked in a space behind their storefront. The cops were hollering at me to get the heck out of there. I ducked my head back in, laid down, and then peeked around the corner to see the guy. He put the gun in his mouth and pulled the trigger; there was a flash of red streaking out from the back of his head.

I walked up to get a good look and a cop grabbed me, screaming as to all the bad things that could have happened to me. I looked up, and in a window overlooking the alley was my friend Jon L. He got hollered at also.

I looked at the dead guy and the carnage a 45.cal can do at close range. All I could think of was strawberry jam. The smell made me throw up. Jon and I were late for school. We got sent to the pricipal's office for coming up with such a bad excuse—until the next day, when they read about it in the newspaper. We had to tell our story to the teacher in minute detail.

The guy had just shot and killed his landlady because she was trying to collect rent. The gun was a Spanish-made 45.cal auto. and #122 (Ace Double Deuce). Well, you just don't mess with them.


Earlier that year I was swimming off the Wilson Ave Rocks and was out about 20 or 30 feet out when I swam into something bobbing up and down. I looked at it and was out of the water in a flash. I swam right into a dead guy. I remember he had a full head of brown hair and wore a light-colored shirt, dark pants, and had a pack of wings cigarettes in his shirt pocket. He was bobbing up and down in a vertical position with his arms straight out from his elbows; his fists were clenched.

I flagged down a Chicago Park District cop—they weren't part of the Chicago Police at that time—that was riding on his three wheel motorcycle on the Bridle Path that ran adjacent to the rocks.

According to the next day's newspaper, he was in the water for about a month, his identity unknown.

Bill Matteson, who lived at 4737 N. Kenmore from 1942 thru 1951.

May 3, 2011

Lawrence El Station with Newstand

Seriously, how did our current Lawrence El station come to replace this beauty?


The image is currently available for purchase on eBay

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